Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Silver Pagoda/Dancing Pavillion

We landed in Cambodia at 10:30 a.m. Our flight departed Bali at 4:30 a.m. and then we had a brief layover in Kuala Lumpur which we spent in the One World airline alliance lounge. Cambodia Immigration had no lines at that time of the morning and we breezed through with our electronic Visas we had purchased online in advance of our trip. We were able to check a bag in storage at the airport since it was stuffed, not with any necessities, but with all the gifts we received at my husband's Asia-Pacific zone meeting. With a lighter load, we exited customs and took a cab to the Narin Guest House where we would be spending the next two nights.

Narin Guest House

Just two weeks ago I was in Tokyo and raving about the Japanese way of perfection in all aspects of life: food presentation, orderly road traffic, the lack of litter, etc. What I was now seeing in Phnom Penh was the opposite. Although the city is laid out in a grid, traffic is insane. 

Traffic in Phnom Penh

Gas sold in liter bottles

 The few cars on the road are engulfed by scooters that weave around the cars jockeying for the lead. I saw an occasional bus, but the overwhelming mode of public transit is the tuk tuk. Another first for me, a tuk tuk is a motorbike that pulls a two wheel cart, the nicest ones with vinyl benches and a canopy.

Tuk tuk

The Narin Guest House is a 20 room, three story building on a quiet street not far from the river and the palace. The "lobby" or reception is on the second floor and is essentially an open-air terrace. They serve reasonably priced meals on the terrace and although we didn't have a meal there, we enjoyed sitting outside with a cool drink in the evening. Cokes are $0.50 and a beer $0.40.   Our room (the deluxe double with air conditioning) was $20.  (The dollar goes very far here, with all businesses accepting U.S. currency and listing their prices in U.S. dollars. ) In fact, we couldn't believe the ads for spa services since they were so inexpensive…$4.00 for a 30 minute massage.

We strolled along the Tonle Sap river, stopping at one of several rooftop bars to enjoy the view.

View of the river from rooftop restaurant

 

National Museum

Our first day we walked to the Silver Pagoda and palace. It was only a few blocks in the hot sun, but not an easy walk. The road was so swelled with vendors and swerving motorbikes around us that it was difficult to find a place to put your feet. The impressive pagoda faces the river and the rising sun. The palace is another block away from the river. We walked around the walled perimeter, not going inside for a tour since it is closed for a few hours each afternoon.

We walked the Sisowath Quay, parallel to the river,  and into the Foreign Correspondent's Club. We walked upstairs for a great view of the river in their cozy restaurant, and liked the atmosphere and low prices so much that we returned that evening with our friends for happy hour at the rooftop terrace.

Inside the Foreign Correspondent's Club

In the evenings, the city is alive with its night markets, neon lights, and fabulous restaurants.  Cambodia was originally settled by the French, so French cuisine is easily found.  We also found some great Indian food that we shared with our friends, Frank and Sally.

The perfect end to our busy day was a relaxing stop at the sophisticated Elephant Bar in the Raffles Hotel.  The hotel's Singapore location is famous for creating the Singapore Sling cocktail.  Although we were hot and dusty from our exploring, this unpretentious bar made us feel right at home and the staff enjoyed serving us their Singapore Sling which they boast is even better than the ones made in Singapore.

 
The next day we took a tuk to the Russian Market.  The drivers are so eager for your business that they will wait outside all day just to get the return fare.  Although Cambodia has a rainy season, it was dry, dusty and hot for our late-January stay.  The market is known for its designer knockoffs:  Cucci instead of Gucci.  I was most surprised that they slaughter chickens right next to the stall where silk scarves are sold.