San Antonio and Austin, Texas

We arrived in Austin, Texas the first of December. Since I had never been to San Antonio, we made the most of our trip and made the 1 ½ hour drive south of the Austin airport and spent our first night at the Hyatt Regency Riverwalk. This side-trip was also timed to coincide with a trip my sister and her husband were making to San Antonio.

The Riverwalk is an attraction for tourists year round, but is especially charming at Christmas. A narrow river winds through downtown where all the establishments face the water, not the streets. Pedestrians stroll the tree-lined sidewalks on either side of the waterway while water taxis carry more tourists, some wearing Santa hats, beneath colorful twinkle lights strung overhead. Imagine Christmas music playing in the background and it makes a magical image.

After checking into the decked out Hyatt with a stream running through its lobby, we found my sister and her husband who were already settled into town. The four of us hopped from place to place along the Riverwalk taking in our surroundings. We ended up having dinner at Boudro's, after reading their favorable reviews on Urban Spoon. (In every new city that I visit I always go to their site or Yelp to look for restaurant suggestions.)We were seated at a table by the water where each chair had a Mexican poncho draped over the chair in case you got chilly while dining. The temperature did seem cooler down by the water and I draped my poncho over my lap to stay warm.
The next day we walked across the street to tour The Alamo. In my mind, this famous Mission was located in the middle of nowhere along the Mexican border. Turns out, most of the city of San Antonio is built upon former Alamo land. What few buildings of the Alamo compound remain: the chapel, long barracks, etc., are located right in the middle of downtown. Touring the site is free, but we paid to rent audio tours which were well worth the history lesson that we received as we learned of the horrific thirteen day battle between the Texan defenders and the Mexican army. The tragic and heroic fight until death by the Texans inspired so many others to join the Texan army which then defeated the Mexican army a mere six weeks after the battle at the Alamo resulting in an end to the Texas Revolution.

Driving north out of San Antonio is a straight shot up Interstate 35. We passed the premium outlet mall in San Marco on our way south, and I was able to persuade my husband to stop on our way back up to Austin. The premium outlets are adjacent to Tanger Outlets, but are Ina class of their own. The big names are Neiman Marcus, Gucci, Ferragamo, Tory Burch, etc. I had found shopping paradise! But mindful of my limited budget and even more limited carry-on luggage… had to restrain myself.

That same day, we made another detour en route to Austin. Every time my husband attends his South Zone meeting, a group of them head to Salt Lick Barbeque for some of Texas's finest eating. He learned that the original Salt Lick is in Driftwood, Texas and took me on a ride through the Hill Country for a culinary surprise. While I normally try to watch my diet, sabbatical has been all about trying new things and embracing local culture and cuisine. He had planned on taking me there for lunch, but after the stop at the outlet mall, it was closer to dinnertime when we pulled into a parking lot large enough for forty tour buses. Although the Salt Lick property looked like it could hold hundreds (and it probably does at times) we entered the eating hall and joined about a dozen other folks who were there at the same late-lunch early-dinner time.

Our waitress had been working there for decades and was happy to see a rookie and explain the menu to me and point out the family history written on its back. She told me the founder originally started smoking brisket and sausage and the pulled-pork, turkey and chicken were newer additions to the meat choices. Dinners come with potato salad, beans and cole slaw, and you get pickles and onions by request. Of course, you wash it all down with a sweet tea. I gave it my best shot, but couldn't finish my dinner and never looked at the dessert menu… which I am sure was every bit as tempting as the barbeque. We were glad we ate dinner early because we then had all evening to digest the heavy meal.

Austin is a hip

city with an artsy feel and is known for its live music and food trucks. It looks like it is having a growth spurt and is definitely outgrowing its highways as evidenced by all the traffic delays. I couldn't believe all the building construction and overhead cranes. In downtown Austin, Sixth Street is the heart of the city's nightlife. We arrived on a Sunday afternoon to find a sports bar where we could watch the Steelers game. We returned after dark where the street awakens with live music pouring out from all the bars and onto the crowded sidewalks. We stopped at a Sixth Street institution, Maggie Mae's, for some Blues. But, the up-and-coming end of town is East Austin. Be sure to visit the White Horse for their live music. On Sunday night, we heard a famous old time East Austin band and were just as entertained by the patrons' dancing as we were with the sound. I even got asked to dance and stumbled through my version of the two step.

The Texas state capitol building is the largest in the country. We walked right in and joined the free public tour. Stepping into the rotunda, we learned about the six flags of Texas (representing the six countries that ruled the present day territory known as Texas) depicted on the terrazzo floor and lone star on the roof of the dome. The legislature is part-time, meeting only in odd numbered years and for only 140 days. Across the street, we stopped to look at the outside of the Governor's Mansion. The state offices, meanwhile, are hidden underneath the grounds in an engineering marvel of an underground city.

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Camping in Culebra

I am writing this from my hotel room back in San Juan after returning from my camping trip where I had no internet access. I am sitting in front of a television watching, of all things, The Weather Channel where I learned that an arctic blast has covered 90% of the United States while I have been away. I had to chuckle since my wonderful trip just got even better knowing that I was camping on an island in the Caribbean instead of freezing back home in Pennsylvania!

It's not easy getting to Culebra if its your first trip. Fortunately, my husband had camped there before and was my guide. We left our home at 5:30 a.m. bound for Ft. Lauderdale on Southwest Airlines. After a brief layover, we were on a flight to San Juan, Puerto Rico.  Once we landed in San Juan, we picked up our rental car in the parking garage across from baggage claim and were on our way. The drive to the ferry station in Fajardo is about 30 miles, but at least a 45 minute drive even with the new toll road. Once in Fajardo, it is easy to follow the brown ferry signs to the dock. The fenced parking lot seemed secure, and we left some luggage and valuables in our trunk, taking only our camping gear and bare necessities.

The ferry to Culebra departs from Fajardo three times a day, pretty close to the posted time schedule. A round-trip ticket is a mere $4.50. You board with all the locals, a few tourists,  and you can even bring vehicles on board. I was glad I brought a sweater, since it is cool inside and the boat doesn't have an outdoor sundeck.

We boarded the 7:00 p.m. ferry, which left the dock a bit later than that, and we arrived in Culebra by 8:30 p.m. Although taxis are waiting for hire when you arrive by ferry, my husband thought the walk would be good for us.

 I couldn't tell you how far it was to the state park and campground, but it was a miserable 45 minute forced hike in the dark...sweating, swatting mosquitoes, hauling our gear. Eventually, when we no longer had the benefit of street lights, we stopped to dig through our backpack and find a flashlight. After its' batteries burned out (thought he said he was a Boy Scout) my husband pulled out a headlamp which was a lifesaver for keeping us on the roadway, for avoiding being hit by oncoming cars, and eventually for choosing our campsite.

I stayed out of the way as my husband unloaded the pieces of the tent and somehow put it together with just the beam from that headlamp. By 10:00 p.m. the tent was up and we settled into our home for the next few days. Despite our long day, it was difficult falling asleep that first night.   I was a little spooked since we arrived in the dark and I was not familiar with our surroundings and noises coming from the darkness. A feral cat moaned outside the tent and a car drove past, its tires crunching the gravel path and its headlights startling us inside the darkness of our tent. 

After a restless night, I woke to the sound of roosters crowing and later to birds chirping. Outside the confines of the tent, I found a gorgeous sunrise as we sat right upon the edge of the clearest blue water I could imagine. There we were on Flamenco Beach, a stunning horseshoe shaped beach with fine white sand, which was deserted. We ventured into the water which was surprisingly lukewarm and so clear I could see my toes.  Why I hadn't even brushed my teeth yet, but here I was floating in the ocean at 8:00 a.m.

As the day went by and we explored the campground, we noticed about six other tents had been in the campground that night. Also, we had a note outside our tent to see the manager, Jose, at the park office to pay the $30.00/night park fee. Near the park entrance and office, we walked through the little concourse with several food huts and vendors who were setting up for the day. I bought a banana smoothie from one of them for my breakfast and was content, especially since the bathhouse has sinks and toilets and outdoor showers where I could freshen-up that morning.

Eventually our serene beach soon became filled with both locals and excursion tourists and by mid-day everyone was sunbathing or bodysurfing the large swells coming straight down the center of the beach. However, as the sun dropped closer to the horizon the beach and park emptied. One lone kiosk remained open after dark where the proprietor and his friends hung around and sang karaoke songs in Spanish. We were happy for their company as we purchased refreshments from him and sat back and enjoyed the entertainment.  Since there is not much to do in this campground after dark, except go to bed, this was a treat.


The next morning we repeated our ritual of taking an early morning swim and we floated in the ocean in solitude. Although I slept better that second night, I have to confess that my body was stiff even with the thin mattress my husband brought for under my sleeping bag. Then there were the ants, and the mosquitoes, and the heat. However, as we packed our belongings to head back to the ferry on our last day, I knew that I would never forget the beautiful Flamenco beach and the precious mornings where it seemed like we had the entire island to ourselves. I'm proud to say that we went camping in our fifties and not only survived, but loved it!

St. Louis

Once you have seen The Gateway Arch, a monument that symbolizes this town and the westward expansion of the U.S., then it is time to explore all the rest of St. Louis. For me, my first stop was a visit to The Hill for this Midwest town's own Little Italy. We dined at Zia's restaurant and had an amazing meal, starting with the famous Zia's salad. At our friends' suggestion, after dinner we strolled across the street to the Missouri Baking Company. Nobody was hungry for dessert, but it was fun to admire all of the concoctions and talk with the girls behind the counter. We even met the owner's husband who proclaimed himself to be the official taste-tester.

Nancy and I

The next day, my first stop was the St. Louis Art Museum compliments of my high school friend, Nancy Lubinski. Nancy and I shared many thing in high school such as an enthusiasm for dancing and writing. We met in a journalism class and I knew back then that she was the one with the talent. In fact, I am almost ashamed for her to read this blog because I know she could have written it better, and with more humor. She has an arsenal of short stories within her, and someday she will get around to cranking them out for others to enjoy.

Edgar Degas Little Dancer of Fourteen Years

Nancy has been living in St. Louis for many years now with her husband, John, their four children and Nancy's mother. It's rare for me to get to St. Louis, and rarer for the two of us to have a day to ourselves. We enjoyed walking around the museum and looking at the exhibits while catching up on what has been going on in our lives since we last saw each other. Nancy called ahead for lunch reservations at the museum restaurant which is a posh place with large glass windows with an expansive view of the park outside. I joked that it seemed so grown-up that the two of us, who had been friends since we were about seventeen, would be in an art museum sipping a glass of wine with our meal.

Shopping at The Loop

After lunch, our next stop was shopping at The Loop. This is an area of art galleries, unique shops and restaurants located near the University of Washington. I loved all the co-ops that featured handmade goods by various artists. Kids young and old flocked to the soda shop and candy store. We both found something at Sole Blues which sells quality denim and footwear. Nancy tells me Fitz's Restaurant, home to Fitz's root beer, is her kids' favorite.

Steelers game at Helen Fitzgerald's

My weekend in St. Louis also coincided with a Steelers game. On Sunday, Nancy and John joined us at the hangout for the St. Louis Steelers Fan Club to watch what turned out to be a terrible game. Despite the loss, it was so much fun for us couples to get together. 

Nancy's pie

The only thing to top it was the dinner at their home with their beautiful daughter, Stephanie, which included a homemade apple pie. After dinner, John presented my husband with a gift. I thought Nancy was the one with the artistic abilities. Turns out that quiet and reserved John, who is an engineer by day, spends his free time when he is not refereeing basketball, casting chess pieces out of metal, then painting them by hand! He has made several sets of various themes but for my husband… he cast an Abraham Lincoln and the entire Union and Confederate armies!

Chess pieces handmade by John

As I have said before, the best part of my sabbatical has been the time off to travel. Seeing the world is fun, but spending time with old friends is priceless.

From Madrid to Madrid

Turquoise Trail

Two months of sabbatical have passed and I have traveled from Madrid, Spain to the more remote Madrid, New Mexico (a small town on the Turquoise Trail between Santa Fe and Albuquerque made famous by the movie Wild Hogs). 

Madrid, New Mexico

 I started in San Francisco, then went to Europe with stops in Spain (including the capital of Madrid), France, England and Scotland. Back in the U.S., my travels took me to North Carolina, South Carolina, Texas, Florida, Colorado, California (this time Southern Cal), New Mexico and I am headed now to St. Louis.

I have traveled by plane, train, bus, taxi, tram, boat, car and bicycle. I have stayed in fabulous hotels such as the Fairmont and Hyatt resorts. I have stayed in a cottage rented on the Isle of Skye. I have slept on a boat and in an R.V. I have seen the Pacific Ocean, the Atlantic, the Mediterranean, the North Sea, and the Gulf of Mexico. (My husband made a point of taking a plunge in each of them!)

People ask if I know where I am when I wake up in the morning and I usually do. What I can't seem to remember is my hotel room number. With a different hotel every few days, I can't seem to remember whether it was 348 yesterday and 438 today or vice versa.  (Luckily, I can usually retrace my steps to find it.) I also had a problem in Europe figuring out which way to turn the shower faucet on and off.  I ended up either with an ice bath or scalded since the plumbing was never clearly marked and each hotel had a different showerhead model.

Most of all, the past two months of travel have allowed me precious time to visit with family and friends. Most recently, we met my brothers-in-law and their wives along with my mother-in-law in New Mexico. It was so much fun to have the three brothers together.  (They really do look alike, don't they?)

It was no coincidence that we planned the family reunion for a Sunday when the Steelers played the Ravens on Sunday Night Football. (Prime-time, national TV so no need to find a Steelers bar this weekend.) I joked that the best part of sabbatical is being able to stay awake until the end of Sunday Night Football which is something I never did on a work night. But then, every day is a Saturday and every night is a Friday night during sabbatical.

Andy and Jean Marie's home

The next few days I had quality time with my nieces and a special trip into Santa Fe.  As my niece who is almost two loves to say....PICTURES!!

My niece, Cecilia

P.S. Even though I went to Toledo, Spain… I am not planning a trip to Toledo, Ohio anytime soon.

Southern California

It never rains in Southern California is what they say. Luckily, I had a few days of sunshine and warmth in late October in Huntington Beach. The Hyatt resort was my home for two nights. It is typical of a grand resort with luxurious rooms, beautifully landscaped grounds, pools, waterslide and a spa grotto. To take the chill out of the evening air, the resort had several outdoor fire pits for lounging. Leave it to the Hyatt to have a pedestrian bridge to carry guests to the beach so they don't need to cross the street. There's nothing like watching the sun set over the Pacific.

Huntington Beach has a quaint downtown block with surf shops, restaurants, and Jamba Juice. It is also home to the world famous Wahoo's Fish Tacos that serves more than fish and tacos. www.wahoos.com 

 From the shops, you can take the bike path along the beach or walk out onto the pier and watch the hundreds of surfers waiting to catch a wave. (You can rent bikes at the Hyatt.)

Like most of my destinations, this trip allowed me to visit some friends in the area. First, I had the pleasure of spending an evening with young friends and their two-year-old son, Kobe. Next, we made a surprise visit to the Ruth's Chris in Irvine to see our dear friend "Sally from Cali".

 
Finally, we drove over to Ontario for the PONY West Zone meeting. We encountered a rain-out of a day and everyone assured me that it never rains like that in Southern California. I believed them, but was glad I had my sunny days beforehand at Huntington Beach.

Beverly Hills

Another trip, another chance to visit an old friend. This week I am in southern California so I reached out to a childhood friend of mine, Terri Yenko.  She lives in Studio City with her husband, Howie and they too are empty-nesters. We met for dinner on the outdoor patio at Xian on N. Canon Drive (right around the corner from Rodeo) which is a Chinese restaurant managed by Cece who is Terri's neighbor.  The food was fabulous and it was so wonderful to see these old friends!

While in town, I stayed at the Beverly Hilton which is close to all the shops on glitzy Rodeo Drive. In the mornings, I walked through the tree-lined neighborhoods of Beverly Hills, not looking for celebrities, but simply to stretch my legs and to enjoy the beautiful architecture and landscaping in this posh neighborhood. The afternoon was spent swimming laps and lounging at the famous pool back at the Hilton.

A must stop for anybody visiting Los Angeles is The Getty Center. (See my earlier blog about Madrid and the top ten art museums in the world and how this makes my list complete. Top Ten Art Museums in the World) The Getty sits on a hill with views of LA and the Pacific. Designed by Richard Meier, the campus consists of the museum, a research institute, conservation institute and is home to the Getty Foundation named for its benefactor, oilman John Paul Getty. The gardens and landscaping are as lovely as the works of art within. I saw an exhibit on tapestries by Rubens, then got lost wandering through the collection of paintings by Rembrandt, Picasso, Monet, and Renoir to name a few.  A real treat was the self-portrait of a laughing Rembrandt.